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Best Free High Dynamic Range (HDR) Software
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In a Hurry?
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Introduction
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Imagine that you are inside a large Gothic cathedral, and the sunlight is streaming in from the windows. You pull out your digital camera and take a photograph of the beautiful artwork on the church wall near one of the windows. You needn't have bothered. Your digital photograph will be a flop. Either the painting will be dark and barely visible, or the window will appear as a glaring and dominant white area that is hardly recognizable as a window. Or both. Digital photography is a wonderful technology, but it's not very good at handling scenes that are comprised of both very dark and very brightly-lit areas. The human eye is superb at this, but the sensors in digital cameras are not. But, there is way to overcome this problem. It's called HDR photography, which works by combining several photos of the same scene, taken at different exposure settings, into one photo. The details of dark areas (from a longer-duration exposure) are combined with the details of brightly lit areas (from a shorter-duration exposure). The result is a single photo that is correctly exposed in both the dark and light areas. It not only looks like it is correctly exposed, it also looks more dimensional. There is a related technique called tone mapping. Tone mapping is what tells the computer how to actually display this huge tonal range - and there are different ways to do it (different algorithms which have different parameters - this is what the scroll menus and sliders allow you to change). You can also tone-map a single photo, yet it will never provide you with a high dynamic range image by definition, it can only make low dynamic range scenes look like they were outputs of HDR processing. This can bring nice effects or make the image noisy and unnatural-looking. This being said, tone-mapping definetely can't be explained properly in a short paragraph, so if you're interested, there are lots of great articles on the internet for you to read. To create HDR photographs you will need to do two things. First, it would be wise to use a tripod when you take your series of differently exposed photos (try 3 photos, -2EV, 0EV, +2EV), which will ensure that all of the photos are identically composed. Second, you need to combine the series of photos by using special HDR software. Taking the multiple shots may be easy, because most modern cameras have a "bracketing mode" that will allow you to automatically take a picture repeatedly at different exposures. However, if your camera doesn't have this feature, you can do it manually. Aperture priority will be best if you want to use exposure bracketing as mentioned above and manual mode and changing only shutter speed if you're taking each photo manually. Check HDR guides for detailed information and explanation. There are several free HDR software packages, and I've had the opportunity to review most of them. Selecting the best was not easy. |
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Discussion
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PicturenautPicturenaut provides (all automatically) image alignment, exposure correction, color balancing, noise level compensation, and derivation of the camera curve from the source images. It supports most formats, including PFM (Portable Float Map), HDR (Radiance), EXR (OpenEXR), TIFF (32-bit Floating Point), TIFF (LogLuv), LDR, JPEG, TIFF (only RGB color space), TGA (Targa, no alpha channel). It has now the ability to process RAW files. I have checked this out using my NEF RAW files and it worked like a dream. Simply explained, weighting defines the values between dark pixels and light pixels. Dark pixels have noise in them and light pixels are usually over-exposed. Instead of dropping these pixels, they are assigned a weight value. Depending on your image, the weight function may help you obtain a better result. The EV (Exposure Value) can be taken from the EXIF information attached to the image, or assigned a manual value (this is excellent for cheating HDR's). As a modular piece of software, its most important functions can all be accessed from a command line. The downside is that you cannot alter the alignment of the image manually, but I have done tests on auto alignments and Picturenaut came out the best. If you are looking for straightforward images without excessive tone mapping this has to be your top software. FDRTools BasicFDRTools Basic is a solid piece of software, appropriate for those looking for a fast and efficient way to incorporate more dynamic range into an image without the risk of getting a fancy-looking, halo-happy, and tonal hierarchy deprived output. The supported import image formats are: JPEG, TIFF, Radiance RGBE, OpenEXR, Integrated RAW converter plus DCRAW for direct import of virtually all digital camera RAW formats. The supported export image formats are: Radiance RGBE, OpenEXR, TIFF, PNG, PPM, BMP and JPEG. There are four windows that you can view: display of menu with images and adjustments, preview area, progress and navigator. When you choose to align the images, the application automatically compensates for any 'slight' camera wobble. Once the images are aligned, you may manually adjust to create a slight misalignment for image creativity (sometimes a slight misalignment can create a better HDR image by giving it more depth). It provides two tone-mapping options: 'Simplex' – adjusting histogram, gamma and saturation, and 'Receptor', which has two more sliders: 'compression' and 'brightness', which, set to their default values, do change the look of the tone-mapped image. So you will want to switch between the two and see which one you prefer. I believe you should always use Receptor, as it not only gives you more artistic freedom, but also yields better results with the default settings. What are you going to get? Most likely a noticeably range-expanded photo without sharpness loss, with pleasant colors, although you may find that the sky looks a little flat or 'burns' some fine detail like in a photo with overexposed sky. Also, the output could use more local contrast, as the images tend to have a slight, I would say, 'plastic' feel to them. I would say they are on the realistic yet needing enhancement side. Please delve into the 'Preferences', as this will acquaint you with the settings, allow you to specify your own final-image format, and select a destination file for your finished images. Worth checking. Essential HDR Community EditionEssential HDR Community Edition is a fantastic free HDR software that blows the others out of the water when it comes to tone mapping. Their goal is to better Photomatix, which has made itself the bench mark of HDR software. It has an easy interface that allows you to manipulate the image by tone mapping, histogram and color balance. The best way to get a good result really is by using a tripod, however, it does have the ability for alignment if you have hand-held the photograph. Don't hold your breath here, I have found it's not that brilliant. Yes it is FREE, but the limitations of this software allows a maximum image size of 1 MB. To give you an example I took 3 images on different EV values 2592 x 1944 px (5 MP, 4:3). After combing the images the results were: Obviously to get the most out of it is to save as TIFF, it's enough for use on the internet or a decent A5 image. For this reason its not my top choice. You also have to remove the small watermark at the bottom of the image, not a lot to spoil it. Result image can be saved in the following formats: Jpeg, BMP, PNG (8-bit RGB), TIFF (8-bit and 16-bit linear RGB), Radiance HDR. Source image can be in the following formats: Jpeg, BMP, GIF (8-bit RGB), PNG (8-bit RGB), TIFF (16-bit linear RGB), Canon Raw file (CRW and CR2), Nikon Raw file (NEF), Pentax Raw file (PEF), Sony-Minolta Raw file (ARW and MRW), Adobe DNG, Radiance HDR, OpenEXR Luminance HDR (Qtpfsgui)Luminance HDR is the best option if you want to experiment. Nine different tone-mapping algorithms, that means - if you want 'that' particular HDR look - there's a fair chance you'll achieve it with Luminance HDR. More realistic? Sure. A little like a drawing? Sure. Maybe surrealistic? It's all here. Although I consider Luminance HDR a top-notch free HDR product, there are a couple of things that can deter the potential user. First of all, the interface isn't too user-friendly, so it may take you a while to feel at home working with Luminance HDR. For instance, to see how new parameters that you've set affect the image, you have to click a button. There's no 'real-time' preview. On the other hand, Luminance HDR easily creates new tabs (just like a browser) with rendered results. It's never been easier to compare the results that dfferent settings produce, without having to 'try hard' to remember how it looks now, then move a slider or two, and think hard if it looks better or worse. I would say, if you enjoy playing with HDR, if you want to explore, if you feel your current HDR program doesn't let you achieve the results you want, try Luminance HDR. It will be an adventure. |
At least 512 MB memory – Processor: at least Pentium 4, PowerPC G4
Essential HDR can run on 64-bit Windows XP or Vista. However, current support effort focuses on 32-bit Operating Systems. System requirements: 1GB main memory minimal, 2GB preferred - 1.6 GHz CPU minimal, Dual-Core CPU preferred - Screen resolution: 1024x768 minimal, 1280x1024 preferred
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Editor
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This software category is maintained by editor GrandBrand. Registered members can contact the editor with any comments or suggestions they might have by clicking here. |
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Tags
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HDR photography, HDR photo, high dynamic range software, HDR freeware, HDR free software. |
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Comments
Great article. I went with Picturenaut several months ago, today I went to look for updates and the site was not coming up. Maybe they're down for maintenance. Do you know anything?
http://www.hdrlabs.com/picturenaut/index.html everything works for me ;)
It might've been maintenance or some temporary issues...
Tony,
Thanks for the excellent article. I downloaded FDRTools Basic on my MacBook Air and completed my first HDR image in less than 30 minutes from "Download FDRTools" to "Save". Granted, it was far from professional-looking (my three pictures were taken with the camera hand-held, not on a tripod), but not bad at all considering that it was my first ever go with HDR. I'll download Picturenaut later when I'm sitting at my Windows machine.
Cheers!
-Matt
We're glad you enjoyed it. Also, congratulations on your success ;)
If you're adventurous enough, check out Luminance HDR (obviously it's free - we're talking freeware only here @Gizmo)- it has nine different tone mapping algorithms! It's not a perfect program though. I will review it soon. Picturenaut is very user-friendly and fast, so sure, go ahead and try it out.
Thanks for your comment!
Unfortunately the Essential HDR CE gets the thumbs down, basically because it doesn't actually work at any level. Won't even load pictures!
oops, should have read which OS it runs on!
I have used lots of HDR software and quite frankly I found with time that Essential HDR is quite disappointing on lots of subjects. For one thing it clips away a lot of the dynamic range of the picture. It often yields dreadful colours of night scenes.
The examples on their website are cherry-picked. However it is different to the rest and cannot be imitated, so I often experiment with different renderings (including those of Essential HDR) and
choose the one I like the best.
Essential HDR detail enhancer can be very good on trees and forest scenes.
Very Good
I got to know from HDR group on flickr that HDRpad is a free software. It seems a good app. Unfortunately, there is no version for Mac ... :(
Unfortunately, Essential HDR Community Edition 1.0 obligates you to buy it if you decide to install it: "After accepting this license agreement, the Licensee must contact the Vendor to obtain a license for commercial use of the product" (excerpt from License Agreement that is displayed at beginning of setup process).
Anyway, thanks for your review, Tony!
It helped me to start playing with HDR.
I run Qtpfsgui 1.93 on OSX and Linux and never had a crash, ever. I'm really sad to hear that you have issues, because i think Qtpfsgui beats pretty much anything, including Photomatix (which i bought, but don't use anymore) and the other programs mentioned in this article. The user-presets in Qtpfsgui is really useful and save me hours of work. The different tone mapping schemes that comes with it covers virtually anything you want to do, from simple compression to extreme over-cooked tone-mapping.
If you have problems to make it work, take your time to fix - it's worth the effort!
Cheers,
Mike
It's typical of SONY to have files that many converters can't read, or read properly. That's not on purpose, I am SURE! :-)
Luminance HDR/QTpfsgui is free (again?), obviously the reason for that is because the new version turned out to be worse than the old one.
http://qtpfsgui.sourceforge.net/
This should be allowed to be put on as the top choice again. Its tonemapping abilities are far better than the others. Its great to see it free again
Fusion
I think this one will be worth keeping an eye on,it only deals with merging jpgs & i have run only a single jpg to create a pseudo HDR and i am really impressed by the results on the downside there is no instructions so far and there is a quite a choice of settings
anyway let us know what you think
http://fusion.ns-point.com/
Funny enough I downloaded it yesterday. Did a couple. Not entirely happy with it. but will be keeping an eye on it. Thank you. If anyone else could give their evaluation would love to hear them
Tony,
First off, great site and thanks for your hard work doing the testing for us!!! My problem - I have a Sony A500 and have been experimenting with the exposure bracketing. I have saved pictures in the Sony RAW format .ARW. My problem is that neither Essential HDR Community nor Picturenaut 3.0 will even load the .ARW file! Sorry-to be fare, Essential HDR will load the image, but it is just a bunch of vertical lines. Even with a JPEG file, Picturenaut did not image match the 3 photos properly. I have a friend who has Photomatix which handles the JPEG files very nicely, but I was hoping to be able to use the .ARW files since that is my camera's output.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Sony must be like Olympus with a weird RAW format not recognised by many converters. Olympus even has different RAW file formats for different cameras all called .ORF. Even Photomatix cannot read these files. I think this is your problem with Sony.
Picturenaut states it handles all raw files, so I am not sure why it can't handle yours. I have Nikon D5000 and it handles the raw images very well. Did you change your weighting settings? Sometimes its worth changing the settings.
Also it seems strange you are having problems with both software's. I suggest possibly to look at your computer and see if it has enough memory and CPU to handle the software, as I suspect even if you had Photomatix it would do the same thing. My system is a 64bit 6000+ dual core 3GB. and handles it well, which is what I would expect with 4GB of memory, hoping soon to increase to 12GB's.
Did you use a tripod? How far out were the images in alignment? Did you tick the alignment box? Let me know your outcome
I am going to try this experiment on another computer. The first test was on a Win 7 Lenovo T60 laptop with core 2 duo processor (2 ghz) and 2 gb of memory. Wouldn't think that would be a problem, but will try it with a more powerful machine. BTW - the .ARW files load just fine with the Sony provided RAW Image Data Converter software. I have a Win 7 Lenovo 510 with an i5 processor and 4gb of memory that I will try this on later today and will let you know.
At any rate, I can load the .ARW with the converter, increase and decrease the exposure, save all three as jpeg, and Photomatix handled it nicely, just couldn't read them directly. Also handled the three other jpeg files and did the image matching nearly flawlessly.
I did not use a tripod, but was sitting on the ground and had the camera sitting on my knees when I took the picture(s). As I mentioned, Photomatrix handled the original 3 separate jpegs very nicely, but Picturenaut did not. I will try it on my other PC to see if it is a processor/memory issue.
Of course, there is always room for USER ERROR here!!! LOL
The forum on Picturenaut is an excellent source of info and will always help as well. They want to know what struggles you have as they want this to be right
Thanks! I haven't had time to do the experimentation on my other PC yet, but I will let you know as soon as I do. It is really a strange thing - wondering if it is a Sony RAW image issue. I will say that the memory comment makes me think more about this and I'm anxious to try it on the more powerful PC.
I downloaded Picturenaut, ran the program, got an HDR image, Saved it into my picture folder, and then tried to open it in PhotoShop Elements 5.0. It wouldn't open. Tried to open it in PhotoImpact 6. It wouldn't open. The problem is I don't think it was ever Saved -- all that showed up in my picture folder was a file with a logo in it.
There could be a couple of reasons.
1 You saved it when you were doing your adjustments in HDR tonemapping. In which case it only saved the settings of alterations which would be a file called LOGMAP.
2 You saved it in one of the file formats .EXR - HRR.PIC - .FM -
If you saved it as a TIFF all software will read it. If it in the other formats that could be your problem. If none of these it might be an idea to throw the problem onto the forum that Picturenaut have.
I really hope you resolve the problem. Let us know the outcome
Tony
I had the same problem on my first try - the default setting for TIF files was to save as a 32bit version, which nothing on my PC would open. I changed it to 16bit and all was well.
HDR photography works by combining several photos of the same scene, taken at different exposure settings, into one photo.
Fascinating. I will have to add this tom my many photo tools.
I will also have to remember to take several shots of a subject if it is in the condition of light/dark using different exposures. That way I can gain the best of both using this method.
This is a new one to me. Sounds like a great tool. Thanks!
Send a link to your photos when you have had a go at them. Would always love to see your results
Thanks for the work you put into this site Tony.
Thank you for your kind comments
I find myself coming to your blog more and more often to the point where my visits are almost daily now!
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